When Barbie first stepped onto kitchen countertops and toy shelves in 1959, she did so on impossibly high-heeled mules—a symbol of 1960s glamor and the era’s expectations of feminine poise. But in a journey that parallels the real-world evolution of women’s roles and workplace norms, Barbie’s footwear has undergone a dramatic transformation. A new study published in PLOS ONE analyzed 2,750 Barbies released between 1959 and June 2024, documenting a steady shift from tip-toed heels to sensible flats. Researchers from Monash University (Australia) and the University of Brighton (UK) conclude that “Barbieland has a dynamic environment with evolving employment patterns and social policies,” as evidenced by the doll’s changing foot positions.
Research Methodology
Inspiration from Popular Culture
The investigation was sparked by a memorable scene in Greta Gerwig’s 2023 film Barbie, in which Margot Robbie’s character suffers an existential crisis—and an audible onslaught of screams—when her iconic high-heeled feet suddenly flatten. “We all wondered if Barbie really got flat feet,” says Professor Cylie Williams, a podiatrist at Monash University.
Data Collection and Measurement
To answer that question, Williams and her collaborators assembled an unprecedented dataset:
- Sample Size: 2,750 Barbie dolls across 65 years (1959–June 2024)
- Foot Angle Recording: Using a precision goniometer, each doll’s ankle-to-foot angle was measured, distinguishing between standard high-heel foot molds (approximately 40° to the ground) and flat-shoe molds (0–10°).
- Cataloguing Sources: Mattel’s back catalogues, online collector forums and a private archive of several hundred Mattel dolls provided comprehensive coverage of Barbie’s footwear evolution.
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This quantitative approach—analyzing thousands of plastic feet—offers one of the most thorough toy studies ever conducted, marrying podiatry expertise with social history.
The Era of Heels: 1959–1989
Barbie’s Inaugural Footwear
From her debut as a fashion model in 1959, Barbie’s molded feet reflected the six-inch stilettos that dominated women’s fashion. She entered careers as diverse as astronaut, ballerina, veterinarian and ice-cream parlor attendant—all while literally balanced on her toes.
Workplace Dress Codes and Societal Norms
In mid-20th-century America, many female professions mandated heeled footwear as part of formal uniforms. Flight attendants, bank tellers, hotel receptionists and other service workers were often required to wear pumps or heels to project an image of sophistication. With minimal emphasis on comfort or foot health, heeled shoes were treated as an unquestioned standard of female professionalism.
Implications for Play
For children of that generation, Barbie’s heels were as much a fixture of playtime as her convertible car or her Dreamhouse. High heels reinforced prevailing ideas about adult women’s appearance and roles, subtly shaping young minds’ expectations of femininity.
The Rise of Flats: 1990s Onward
Early Forays into Sensibility
The first flat-footed Barbies appeared in 1990, coinciding with the introduction of more career-focused dolls: paleontologist Barbie, video-game designer Barbie and fast-food worker Barbie, among others. Functional flats—sneakers, loafers and sandals—began replacing the rigid tip-toe molds of earlier dolls.
Acceleration in the 2000s and 2010s
By 2000, approximately 30 percent of newly released Barbies featured flat feet. The trend intensified over the next two decades:
- 2000–2010: Flat-footed models rose to 45 percent of new releases, reflecting the doll’s expansion into athletic roles and STEM careers.
- 2010–2024: A sharp increase saw flats constitute nearly 60 percent of all new Barbies by mid-2024, according to the PLOS ONE study.
Diverse Foot Positions Today
Mattel now offers Barbie dolls with a spectrum of ankle flexibilities, accommodating everything from high-top sneakers to stiletto pumps. This variety empowers children to mix and match attire, encouraging imaginative play that mirrors real-world footwear choices.
Societal and Legislative Influences
Legal Empowerment of Women
The late 1980s and early 1990s were pivotal for women’s economic autonomy. The U.S. Women’s Business Ownership Act of 1988 eliminated the requirement that women secure business loans only with a male co-signatory. This legal shift paralleled cultural changes that loosened strict workplace dress codes and validated women’s choices to prioritize comfort and practicality.
Evolving Corporate Standards
Throughout the 1990s and 2000s, corporations gradually relaxed uniform requirements, allowing flats and low-heeled shoes for safety and health reasons. Industries with historically rigid standards—airlines, finance, retail—began adopting gender-neutral or comfort-focused footwear policies. Barbie’s transition into flats mirrors these corporate reforms.
Health and Wellness Trends
An increasing emphasis on foot health and ergonomics has influenced public perception of high heels. Occupational health studies in the late 20th century linked prolonged heel use to musculoskeletal issues, prompting recommendations for lower heels or flat shoes for workers. Barbie’s shift to flats reflects both consumer and professional awareness of footwear’s impact on well-being.
Foot Health and Expert Perspectives
Professor Cylie Williams (Monash University)
Williams argues that high heels are not inherently harmful when worn judiciously. “We should move past doom-and-gloom narratives,” she says. “Women—and Barbie—will choose appropriate footwear for their activities.” Her own day spent in heels before an interview underscores her point: choice and context matter.
Dr. Dao Tunprasert (University of Brighton)
Tunprasert lauds the study as an “oddly fitting metaphor” for restrictive gender norms. “Barbie’s ankles couldn’t bend for 30 years,” she notes, “symbolizing how rigid expectations confined women’s options.” She calls for a nonjudgmental approach to women’s footwear choices, emphasizing autonomy and diversity.
Broader Podiatric Insights
The research team highlights that flats aid stability and reduce lower-limb strain during active play—important considerations for children modeling everyday life scenarios. By offering dolls with realistic foot positions, Mattel helps normalize a range of healthy movement patterns.
Cultural Symbolism and Gender Norms
From Glamour to Authenticity
Barbie’s umbrella career tagline—“You can be anything”—has evolved from aspirational fantasy to grounded representation. Flats allow Barbie to authentically embody roles that require mobility, from wildlife biologist to skateboarder. This authenticity aligns with contemporary values of inclusivity and empowerment.
Shaping Aspirations
As a cultural icon, Barbie influences children’s perceptions of adult life. The adoption of flats subtly reinforces that competence and comfort can coexist, and that appearance need not constrain ambition. For many children, a flat-footed Barbie signals that women can excel in dynamic, hands-on careers without sacrificing professionalism.
Mattel’s Product Evolution
Deliberate Design Changes
A Mattel spokesperson explains that the last decade marks “the Barbie brand’s most ambitious product design evolution.” Beyond footwear, Mattel has expanded skin tones, hair textures, body types and abilities—introducing dolls with Down syndrome, wheelchair accessories and diverse cultural representations.
Foot Positions and Imagination
By increasing the range of foot molds, Mattel aims to support “Barbie’s bold steps forward.” Whether wearing stilettos for an on-screen red carpet or flats for a field research expedition, Barbie’s versatility now mirrors the real choices women make daily.
Commercial and Social Success
The refreshed Barbie line has driven renewed market interest, with flat-footed and career-themed dolls becoming best-sellers. Toy analysts credit Mattel’s responsiveness to social trends—gender equity movements, workplace flexibility and wellness focus—for the brand’s resurgence in recent years.
Implications for Play and Representation
Enhanced Role-Playing Scenarios
Flats enable more physically active play: rock climbing, soccer and skateboarding scenarios that would be implausible in heels. This expansion broadens the scope of pretend play, encouraging children to explore STEM, sports and leadership roles.
Reinforcing Diversity and Choice
By presenting multiple footwear options, Barbie communicates that no single style defines femininity or professionalism. Children learn that personal preference and capability trump prescriptive norms—a lesson with potential long-term benefits for gender equality.
Conclusion
Barbie’s journey from high-heeled icon to flat-shod professional reflects broader societal transformations in women’s economic, legal and health landscapes. The PLOS ONE study’s meticulous measurement of nearly 3,000 dolls over 65 years reveals more than a shift in toy design—it uncovers a powerful metaphor for evolving gender roles and workplace expectations. As Barbie continues to adapt her wardrobe and her feet to changing times, she remains a barometer of cultural values, reminding us that progress often begins with the choices we make—and the shoes we choose to fill.
